Good garden soil teems with life and activity. What goes on beneath the soil constitutes an entire ecosystem with microorganisms, insects, and invertebrates. There are good ones and there are others that damage plant roots or emerge to spread disease and eat your lawn, flowers, vegetables, and herbs. Beneficial nematodes can help rid your garden of some common insect pests.

What Are Nematodes?

Nematodes are microscopic worms with highly specialized diets and two kinds are important to gardeners: root-knot nematodes and beneficial nematodes.

Both types are parasitic and thrive in the moist environment surrounding plant roots. The key difference is that root-knot nematodes—Meloidogyne spp—damage plants by invading and corrupting the plant’s root system. Beneficial nematodes—the two most common being Steinernema carpocapsae and Heterorhabditis bacteriophora—are a natural, environmentally friendly method for eradicating soil-born insect pests. These types do not affect humans, animals, or other insects that don’t reside, for at least a portion of their life cycle, below the soil.

Many other types of nematodes are not parasites of plants or insects, instead feeding on fungi, bacteria, and other nematodes. These species help break down organic elements in soil and make nutrients available to plants. Many species are being studied to learn about and understand how they improve and benefit soil.

Beneficial Nematodes for Pest Control

Beneficial nematodes are most commonly used to control insect pests in crops, lawns and gardens, turf, nurseries, citrus, cranberries, and mushrooms.1 A total of five different species are commercially available. Each species targets specific insect pests with some overlap.

Plenty of common garden insect pests live or produce underground. Beneficial nematodes seek out potential hosts by detecting the pest’s chemical signature and destroying them. The lifespan of a beneficial nematode is about two weeks. Here is a sampling of insect pests that have been successfully controlled by beneficial nematodes:

• Cutworms
• Armyworms
• Wireworms
• Fungus gnat
• Japanese beetle
• Common turf grubs
• Black vine weevil

How to Use Nematodes for Pest Control

The most important information when considering applying beneficial nematodes is to make sure the type you select infects the targeted pest. Beneficial nematodes are light and temperature sensitive and less effective in cool or dry environments so investigate the type that works best in your climate.

Beneficial nematodes are effective as pest control only during the third stage of their life cycle. They can be stored for several months at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. How long they can be refrigerated depends on the species. Once they are mixed with water they can’t be stored or saved for future use. Ask your supplier for storage information and expiration date if one isn’t listed.

Beneficial nematodes may come on a sponge, in a gel, granulated, or as liquid. Once the package is opened, use the entire contents. Do not use expired beneficial nematodes which may emit an unpleasant fishy smell.

Follow these steps to apply beneficial nematodes to your lawn, crops, orchards, and gardens:

1. Apply beneficial nematodes in early spring or August through September. It’s best to use them as soon as you receive them.
2. Morning and evening applications are best.
3. Water the application area saturating the top 2 inches of soil.
4. Mix the package of nematodes with water according to the instructions.
5. Use a watering can, hose with a sprayer attachment, or a mister to disperse the nematode solution.
6. Water a second time to move the organisms into the soil.
7. Keep soil moist for two weeks.
8. Delay reseeding a lawn or planting crops for two weeks following application.

Where to Get Beneficial Nematodes

These organic pest controls can be purchased on websites, at garden centers, and at specialty garden retailers. If you’re targeting a specific pest like strawberry borer or cranberry weevil, look for companies with earth-friendly names that offer a range of organic products for the home and garden.

Hummingbirds are attracted to a sweet nectar recipe, but so are ants, bees, hornets, wasps, and other sugar-loving insects. Hummingbirds are aggressive feeders and likely won’t be deterred by a few bees or ants here and there, but when too many bugs feed on the sugar water, it becomes contaminated and less attractive to hummingbirds. In extreme cases, dozens or hundreds of insects may monopolize a feeder, preventing birds from visiting at all.

Fortunately, there are many easy and safe control techniques to help deter insects like bees and wasps from hummingbird feeders without harming the birds. Try one or more of these natural tactics to discourage stinging insects from harassing your hummingbirds.

Before Getting Started

Air drying works best with herbs that do not have a high moisture content, like bay, dill, angelica, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, summer savory, and thyme.1 To retain the best flavor of these herbs, you’ll either need to allow them to dry naturally or use a food dehydrator. A microwave or an oven set on low may seem like a convenient shortcut, but they actually cook the herbs to a degree, diminishing the oil content and flavor. Use these appliances only as a last resort.2

If you want to preserve herbs with succulent leaves or a high moisture content, such as basil, chives, mint, and tarragon, you can try drying them with a dehydrator, but for the best flavor retention, consider freezing them. It’s easy to do and even quicker than drying.

When to Plant Seed Potatoes

Potatoes do best in full sun. They can be planted in the early spring two to four weeks prior to the expected last frost date in your area. Seed potatoes planted in soil that is too cold or soggy may rot.1 Generally, potatoes will not grow until the soil temperature has reached at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit. You can plant a second crop as late as June 15th depending on location and harvest the potatoes as late as possible. Potato plants will tolerate a light frost, but protect plants from freezes with row covers, or harvest them before a freeze arrives.

Working With Potatoes

Potatoes are aggressively rooting plants and will produce the best crop when planted in light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5—acidic to neutral. However, potatoes are prolific growers and usually adapt to poor soil and climate conditions. Make sure to rotate where you plant potatoes in the garden, as soil-borne diseases can linger in the ground and affect future crops.2

When selecting seed potatoes, do not use the potatoes you buy at the grocery store. Grocery produce is often treated with a growth inhibitor, which keeps potatoes fresher longer but also prevents sprouting or stunts growth.

Organically grown potatoes may be free of growth inhibitors, but they are prone to any diseases carried over from their growth period (such as ring rot or fusarium wilt).3 You need disease-free, certified seed potatoes. Before planting, examine the seed potatoes and discard any that have soft spots, cracks, bruises, or signs of rotting.

Before you plant, you may also decide to “chit” (pre-sprout) the potatoes. If you decide to encourage stem growth on your potatoes, this step will add two to four weeks to the planting process. However, many gardeners find that chitting potatoes produces a quicker, slightly larger potato.

Instructions

 

Chit the Potatoes (Optional)

Although potatoes will sprout in the dark, you will get long, pale shoots that easily break. Instead, place them in a cool spot with bright light for 2 to 4 weeks. This way, the sprouts will grow stocky, sturdy, and dark green. This process is also called greening. You can place your seed potatoes upright in an egg carton or box, on a tray, or screen with the majority of buds (“eyes”) facing up. Do not pile them atop one another. You can start this process one month before your outdoor planting date.

 

Cut the Potatoes (Optional)

You do not need to plant a whole, intact potato. Seed potatoes can be cut into pieces before planting. Each piece should have at least one “eye” each—a bud that will sprout into a new plant. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the seed potatoes into 2-inch squares. If you are going to cut them, do it about two days before you plan to plant. This allows the pieces to form a callus or seal, which prevents rotting while the pieces sprout and take root. If your seed potato is smaller than a ping pong ball, though, plant it whole.

 

Plant the Sprouted Potatoes

Plant the potatoes as soon as the sprouts are 1/2 inch to 1 inch long. Handle the seed potatoes carefully, so the sprouts do not break off or become damaged. Plant potatoes with the sprouts facing up and cover lightly with soil. If you’ve cut the seed potatoes, make sure the cut side is facing down.

 

Plant in Rows

Potatoes grow best planted in rows spaced 3 feet apart. Plant the seed potatoes in a trench that is 6 to 8 inches deep. Place cut side down, with eyes facing up. Space the seed potatoes 12 to 15 inches apart. Fill the trench with 4 inches of soil. As the plants grow, add more soil, mounding it up around the plants.

 

Water Well

Keep potatoes well-watered throughout summer, especially when flowering. During flowering, the plants begin to create the tubers—the edible potatoes. Potatoes need 1 to 2 inches of water per week to produce well.

 

Harvest the Mature Potatoes

When the foliage turns yellow, discontinue watering to begin the curing process for harvesting. You can harvest baby, or “new” potatoes two to three weeks after flowering ceases. Dig around the plants carefully to remove new potatoes for fresh eating, and leave the smaller potatoes to continue growing.

For potatoes that you plan to store, harvest the crop two to three weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully loosen the potatoes with a garden fork and remove them from the bed. If the weather is dry, leave the potatoes in the garden, unwashed, for two to three days to cure, or move them to a protected area, such as a garage or shed, to cure.

Seed Potato Tips

• You do not have to chit the potatoes to get a good crop. However, you might want to chit your potatoes if you notice them beginning to sprout or if you want an earlier harvest date. If you plan to eventually cut them before planting them, chit before cutting them.
• When planting whole seed potatoes or pieces of potatoes, in general, more eyes per piece equals more potatoes. Smaller potatoes with one or two eyes per piece mean fewer potatoes, but they will be larger.
• To further protect your seed potatoes, you can dust them with powdered sulfur right after cutting them and before planting them. Place the potatoes in a bag, add the sulfur and shake. Then lay the pieces out and let them dry for three to four days.
• If you have to postpone planting because of weather or some other reason, move the seed potatoes to a cooler spot to slow down their growth. Don’t wait too long; the potatoes may start to dehydrate and shrivel.
• On average, one pound of seed potatoes should yield about 10 pounds of edible potatoes. One pound of seed potatoes should fill a 5- to 8-foot row, depending on the variety.
• It’s easy to plant seed potatoes in bags and pots, both of which are good alternatives if you have issues with voles in the garden. The planting process is the same for bags and pots. Fill a grow bag halfway with potting mix, plant the seed potatoes, and continue to add more soil to the bag as the potatoes grow. To harvest, spread out a tarp or sheet, and dump the bag. Kids especially enjoy sorting through the bag to find potatoes!

The scientific name of the plant is Toxicodendron radicans. Knowing the old rhyme of “Leaves of three, let it be” may be the easiest way to tell if it might be poison ivy, but you need more information to be positive. These photos will allow you to identify the plant, both with and without leaves and at various stages of maturity.

While the leaves are the most toxic part of the plant, contact with any part (even when the plant is bare of foliage) can be toxic to you. Even if your cat or dog comes in contact with the plant, the animal can spread it to you.1 That is why it is essential to learn how to tell what poison ivy looks like throughout the growing season and beyond. This leaf close-up shows plants less than a foot high but already put on their green summer color.

Where Poison Ivy Grows

Poison ivy is native to the eastern United States and eastern Canada; therefore, by definition, it can’t be considered invasive there, even though it spreads aggressively even in that region.1 But it could be invasive in regions to which it has been introduced. Poison ivy is not fussy about sun and soil conditions, which is one reason why it is such a successful weed.

Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is commonly mistaken for poison ivy since it’s another vine that often grows in the same places. The difference between Virginia creeper and poison ivy is that it often grows in groupings of five leaflets. Similarly, both plants have a reddish center where the leaflets join. Also, Virginia creeper vines are much less hairy than poison ivy vines.

At first glance, box elder (Acer negundo) seedlings grow as three leaflets, which can look like poison ivy. The significant difference is box elder leaves, however, are arranged opposite each other, not alternating like poison ivy.

Leaves of Young Plants

Young poison ivy plants often start in spring with orange or reddish leaves. Be aware that the margins of the leaves sometimes have notches in them (but not always, so this feature, in and of itself, is not enough to identify the weed). The plants here are just barely off the ground, but the oil (urushiol, which makes this plant toxic) can still rub off on the fabric of shoes and socks. It is possible to transfer the oil from your clothes to your skin, so be careful removing the garment if you think it came into contact with poison ivy.

Mature Plants

As summer progresses and poison ivy plants mature, most of the leaves are green and about two feet high. Any new leaves that appear will still be reddish, as in spring (but the red color will not be as intense). Poison ivy vines often grow in a mass, taking over an area and becoming the dominant plant.

Flower Buds

People seldom associate something as nasty as poison ivy with flowers, but it blooms. The blossoms are not especially attractive. The flower buds, which form in clusters, look like tiny specks of green if you are just glancing quickly at the plant.

 

Flowers

Poison ivy produces relatively small, unremarkable off-white blossoms with orange centers. Unopened buds that are close to opening are also off-white. You will sometimes see a plant with both opened and unopened flower buds simultaneously (as in this example). Walking quickly past a patch of poison ivy plants in bloom, you would hardly notice the individual blossoms.

 

Berries

Poison ivy plants also grow berries, which are just as toxic as the rest of the plants.1 An identifying trait of poison ivy is the color of its mature berries. They turn from a pale green to a whitish color when they ripen (in late summer to early fall). Poison sumac also has a curious white berry.

 

Fall Foliage: Orange

The green summer color of poison ivy’s foliage yields brilliant fall foliage in red, yellow, or orange. The autumn brilliance of poison ivy’s foliage is due to the anthocyanin pigments characteristic of the plant family to which poison ivy belongs. Poison oak and poison sumac turn similarly colorful shades in fall. All three plants are members of the cashew family (Anacardiaceae). The color in autumn is as breathtaking as it is on any of the trees grown for their colorful fall foliage.

 

Fall Foliage: Red

If poison ivy sprouts in the spring with red leaves, they often display reddish fall foliage. In this regard, poison ivy is a lot like red maple trees that show red buds in spring that are a preview of their gorgeous red fall foliage.

 

Aerial Roots

You may have seen hairy vines climbing up trees or bristling along the tops of logs resting on the forest floor. The “hairs” are the vines’ aerial rootlets. That is what poison ivy looks like in winter after the old leaves have fallen off and before spring’s new leaves can take their place.

Rootlets are why trees, tree stumps, and stone walls are covered in vines. Rootlets can cling to surfaces, allowing the vines to climb. When poison ivy has been climbing a tree for a long time, the vine can become so embedded into its bark that it essentially disappears, with only the rootlets visible.

The Vines Can Damage Clapboard

Winter’s “hairy” vines are as toxic as the rest of the plant during other seasons.1 Poison ivy vines can climb up the walls of buildings. If they are allowed to climb up the side of a house, garage, barn, or outdoor storage shed sided with clapboards, they can wreak havoc with the clapboards over time, necessitating repair work.

 

How to Remove Poison Ivy

You should remove poison ivy from your property, so you don’t accidentally make contact with it while gardening. It is possible to eradicate poison ivy safely, whether organically (manually) or with herbicides, but you must take extreme precautions, which might take several attempts.

When working around poison ivy, it’s essential to wear gloves (wash the gloves and your clothes separately afterward from your other laundry) so that any residue you came in contact with isn’t transmitted to your food, face, pets, other people, or any other surfaces.

 

Identifying Poison Ivy vs. Poison Oak vs. Poison Sumac

Poison ivy and poison oak are more alike than poison sumac. They each look like they have three leaves per stem. Each leaf (or, in this case, leaflet) is 2 to 8 inches long and 1 to 5 inches wide. They have teeth along the edges of the leaf. The difference with poison oak is the teeth appear rounded, more like a rounded or bulbous common oak leaf; meanwhile, poison ivy teeth edges appear more pointy. Also, for poison ivy and oak, the juncture where the leaflet joins at the stem is often reddish.

The growth habits of poison ivy and oak are different. Poison ivy grows like a vine along the ground or up the sides of trees or structures. Poison oak grows like a shrub with leaves atop longer, upright stems. Like poison oak, poison sumac grows like a shrub or small tree. It can grow up to 20 feet tall and is often found in wooded, swampy locations.

A similarity poison sumac has to poison ivy or oak is its stems are red—more than poison ivy and oak. Also, they all produce white berries. Beyond that, poison sumac leaves look very different. Each leaflet is oblong with sharp, pointed tips and smooth edges. The leaflets do not group in threes. Instead, you can expect to see seven to 15 leaflets lined up in pairs; each leaf is about 2 to 4 inches long and 3⁄4 to 2 inches wide.

The tender perennial cigar plant (Cuphea ignea) is more commonly referred to as the Mexican cigar plant or the firecracker plant. This tropical evergreen shrub has a bright red flower with white and black tips that could bear some similarities to a lit cigar. The word ignea in the botanical name is the Latin word for fire.

If you live in a hot region that mimics the tropical temperatures of its native Mexico and Jamaica, this densely branched plant could appeal. Its small, bright, tubular, and orange-red flowers bloom almost year-round, and the plant is a favorite of butterflies, hummingbirds, and other pollinators.

A small subshrub, it rarely grows above 25 inches in height, so some people even choose to keep it as a permanent addition to their houseplant collection. The continual flowering will add interest to your home throughout the year. Although the Mexican cigar plant doesn’t grow tall, it can form in layers, creating a mounding habit. This can easily be kept under control with light winter pruning.

The plant is useful as an attractive, ornamental, and bright front-positioned border shrub or bedding plant. Its neat and compact form also makes it an excellent choice for growing in containers that will add a splash of color on patios, balconies, or terraces. Just be aware that even when grown as a perennial, cigar plants are not all that long-lived.

Cigar Plant Care

Providing your Mexican cigar plant gets enough warmth, sun, and moisture, you will be treated to beautiful, delicate, and bright blooms through most of the seasons.

You will likely have to take cuttings or grow some new plants from seeds every few years, though, when the original plants start to lose their vigor.

Light

Mexican cigar plants like to be in a full sun or part shade position. In more temperature regions, a full sun position will be best. If they don’t get enough light, these plants can develop brown patches on the leaves, particularly after the winter season. They also tend to remain more compact in a less bright position.

Soil

This is a tropical plant, so it should come as no surprise that the Mexican cigar plant prefers a fertile, moist, and well-drained soil. Other than this, they are not terribly fussy.

Water

For best flowering potential and growth, Mexican cigar plants prefer moist conditions and appreciate a decent amount of watering. This is especially important when they are establishing and through their growing season.

They do have a high tolerance for hot summers, though, and have some drought tolerance too. Just don’t expect such an impressive and long-lasting array of flowering if you let them get overly dry now and then. In the winter, watering can be significantly reduced, but they still appreciate being kept moist.

Temperature and Humidity

Mexican cigar plants need a sheltered spot, out of strong winds, and don’t forget these plants are frost tender. They will only be able to survive as an annual in areas that have cold winters, or, alternatively, they will need to be brought indoors before the frosts arrive.

If you are keeping this species as a houseplant, they will appreciate regular misting to provide them with the humidity they enjoy. They will even appreciate this during the winter months, as conditions tend to be drier through this season—particularly if you are using heating a lot.

Fertilizer

During the growing season, as you would expect from a species that flowers so prolifically, the Mexican cigar plant will appreciate being fed regularly. An application of a weak and balanced liquid fertilizer every few weeks should be enough if they are being grown in fertile soil. Fertilization won’t be required throughout the winter.

Pruning

With a lot of sun, Mexican cigar plants can become rather leggy. Pinching can help them maintain a tidy and compact form, simply pinch off the stem tips. This will encourage the plant to produce new branches. Pruning in late winter can also be beneficial if their form has become untidy.

Propagating Cigar Plants

Mexican cigar plants can be easily propagated from stem cuttings. Select healthy growth in the fall or winter and get the cuttings started off indoors. You can also take cuttings in early spring for ones that will be placed in containers. Here’s how:

1. Using scissors or pruning shears, snip a healthy cutting(s) about 3 to 4 inches in length from the plant.
2. Take the cut edge of the cutting(s) and dip it into root hormone.
3. Put the cutting(s) in a container prepared with potting soil and water until moist.
4. Placing multiple cuttings together in one pot is a good way to start rooting and growing these plants.

How to Grow Cigar Plants From Seed

It is possible to sow the seeds of Mexican cigar plants directly into the ground in late spring if the temperatures are right. Sowing too early can result in overly leggy seedlings as they are quick to grow once they have germinated. Although the seeds have a hard coat, they usually germinate within a few weeks.

If you are concerned about temperatures, you can start the seeds indoors around three months before the expected last frost.

If you plan to use the ripe seeds from an existing Mexican cigar plant, you can harvest these as soon as you see the little yellow seeds appearing on the stalk. They only stay there for a few days, maximum, so you will need to be vigilant.

Potting Cigar Plants

Cigar plants are an excellent choice to plant in a large container with drainage holes for an outside patio or front entryway. They also can be a decorative potted plant inside, just pot it in a nice clay pot, with a saucer attached or placed underneath, to catch any water that drains out of the container after watering. To put in a pot, simply use good potting soil and place the plant in the pot making sure to cover the roots and about 1/2 to 1 inch of the stem.

Overwinterizing

For those areas that are prone to early or hard frosts, the cigar plant can be grown in containers and moved indoors when winter arrives, or it can simply be treated as an annual. Keep it in a warm place in the house that gets sun, and the soil should be kept slightly moist.

Common Pests

The Mexican cigar plant is generally free from pests or diseases. Common pests that might visit this plant’s leaves are aphids, which can be taken care of with neem oil.

How to Get a Cigar Plant to Bloom

These plants bloom profusely, beginning in the spring and going through to the fall. If cared for properly, you will enjoy a profusion of its brightly colored flowers. Plant them in soil that is kept moist and well-drained, locate them in full to partial sun, and keep them watered. Pinching the stem tips when they start getting too long and look leggy will also help keep this plant healthy and blooming.

Prunus avium ‘Bing’ is a beautiful tree that can be used as an ornamental rather than a fruit-producing tree, without the worry of having to put in the effort of raising a species to cross-pollinate. Still, there are better-looking species out there for ornamental horticultural needs. The Bing cherry was cultivated to produce fruit but it is not the easiest to grow and will take some effort. With that effort, though, comes those amazing cherries—so you need to decide if it’s worth it. Here’s everything you need to know about caring from Bing cherry trees.

How to Plant a Bing Cherry Tree

The biggest thing to remember when planting a Bing cherry tree is purpose. If you are planting for fruit production, you are planting two trees. You will need to research the needs and care for Bing cherry trees and the cross-pollinator. A great choice for a cross is the ‘Black Tartarian,’ but ‘Ranier’ and ‘Van’ are also good choices.

As mentioned above, this cultivar can be difficult to grow; this may be an entirely different experience for others trying to grow this tree. The cultivar is extremely susceptible to the climatic conditions it is planted in and does not transplant well at all. To achieve the best results, follow the few plant tips the Bing cherry listed below. Look towards another cultivar if you are located outside the recommended hardiness zones of USDA 5-8.

Selecting a Planting Site

To ensure your Bing cherry tree stays happy, healthy, alive, and producing as long as possible, you will want to spend a good amount of time reviewing the possible sites for planting your trees. Consider a spot with a neutral pH with sandy and well-draining soil that does not receive high winds. If it ever has or can be a location accumulating standing water, look elsewhere, as this will kill your tree quickly. Finally, look for a spot that receives six to eight hours of sunlight daily. Again, remember you are looking to plan for planting two distinctly different trees, so your Bing site must be compatible with the requirements of your chosen cross-pollinator.

Spacing, Depth, and Support

Planting the Bing cherry will be similar to planting other trees once you select a suitable location. The Bing cherry tree will require a hole twice as wide as the container or burlap ball. Planting shallower is always better than planting too deep. Backfill the hole with soil, tamp down, and properly place a stake to ensure your newly planted tree grows straight and can resist any winds while developing roots.

You must plant your cross-pollinator further than 100 feet away, but the closer, the better. In most home landscapes, 100 feet is not doable, so just outside the spread of the Bing cherry is perfect, 20-25 feet.

Bing Cherry Tree Care

Something so delicious will not come easily. Because of that, it takes a lot of effort to care for the Bing cherry tree; most of this comes from giving it the right conditions. If you follow these few steps, you will be moving in the right direction:

• Provide your Bing cherry tree with full sun.
• Plant Bing cherry trees only in climates with dry summers.
• Water well in spring during blooming months.
• Test your soil to determine if fertilizer is required.

Light

The amount of sunlight you provide will help determine the yield you receive when you harvest your cherries and ensure your tree keeps its vigor. To guarantee the best chances of a plentiful harvest and a long life for your cherry tree, plant it in a place that receives full sun. Getting full sun will also guard it from cooler temperatures and allow it to dry off if it gets unexpectedly wet. The same benefit can be detrimental and make your tree get too hot.

Soil

A Bing cherry tree is not incredibly adaptable when it comes to soil conditions, especially in regard to moisture. The biggest concern you will need to consider is moisture retention. Your soil should be well draining but be able to hold some moisture. The ideal soil should be a neutral sandy soil, with some organics.

Water

Bing cherry trees are complicated as they need ample water during the spring when they are preparing to bloom. However, as the fruit develops, abundant watering will harm the tree’s drupes and cause the delicate fruit’s skin to crack. This finicky temperament is why location and zone are so important.

Temperature and Humidity

Stressing that a Bing cherry tree’s health relies on climate cannot be overstated. Not only will the tree’s production be destroyed by wet weather at the wrong time, or a bad cold snap late in spring but a cold winter or extremely hot summer will kill the tree. Sticking to the USDA-recommended zones and imagining the climates of the Northwest will give you a good guide to help you consider if this is the right plant for you.

Fertilizer

The Bing Cherry tree is an extremely slow feeder and does not usually require supplemental fertilizer. Supposing you want to boost production or blooms: you should first test your soil for deficiencies and see if there is a need. Adding a fertilizer formulated for cherry trees (usually meant for ornamental ones) may upset the perfect nutrient balance for producing fruit. Take a little time and do a home test so you can be sure you can enjoy as many of those delicious cherries as possible.

Pollination

The Bing cherry does not self-pollinate so you will need to plant a pollinizer within 100 feet of your tree. Some good examples of cross-pollinators are Black Tartarian, Sam, Montmorency, Rainier, Stella, Garden Bing, and Van.

Types of Bing Cherry Trees

Prunus avium ‘Bing’ is a cultivar of the species Prunus avium. There are no other types of bing cherry trees, except for the dwarf form that is achieved by using a cherry rootstock that stunts the cultivar’s growth. This form is often used for ornamental horticultural purposes as it is considerably less hardy.

Harvesting Bing Cherries

Your first harvest will appear depending on the source of your tree, typically three to four years after planting. The Bing cherry produces ripe fruit ready to harvest upon maturity, every summer between June and the beginning of August. Once the fruit is picked, it no longer ripens, so it should be allowed to ripen fully on the tree.

Pruning the Bing Cherry Tree

Pruning of your Bing cherry tree should be done primarily for function. You’ll want to prune your cherry tree yearly in the early winter when the tree is dormant. Your main goal is to create a main leader and a pathway for easy harvest by giving the tree a uniform open canopy. You will want to remove all dead, dying, all damaged branches. The main objective is to create a tree that can get plenty of sun, airflow, and water in the spring and allow you to inspect and harvest the fruit when it is ready.

Propagating Bing Cherry Tree

Propagating the Bing cherry is not recommended for several reasons. Specimens bought at a nursery are specially grafted and can deliver fruit in as little as one to three years. A cutting taken from a mature plant will produce in three to four and will not be as hearty as it is not on proven rootstock selected for certain qualities.

Growing from seed will deliver unreliable results that are not genetically identical to the mother plant and may take up to ten years to produce fruit. The time and effort to propagate is not worth the results.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

The pests and diseases that harm the Bing cherry are often the same culprits that plague other plants in the genus Prunus. Cherry aphids, western cherry fruit flies, and the spider mite will bother the tree. These will not cause serious harm, except the western cherry fruit fly will make the harvest inedible through larval infection.

Diseases infecting the trees are similar but often more serious, especially root rot. The Bing cherry tree’s biggest downfall is standing water, resulting in root rot. Once rot sets in; the tree can not be salvaged, so much care needs to be put into the location and soil conditions ensuring the water retention and moisture conditions are just right.

The Lodi apple tree is one of the earliest to produce fruits that are full in size and flavor and easy to grow right in your own backyard. The Lodi is a medium-sized tree that grows to about 20-feet tall and has a 25-foot spread. Semi-dwarf and dwarf varieties reach about 15 feet and 10 feet in height.

Considered to be a cold-hardy tree, the Lodi is hardy to USDA growing Zone 3 which makes it a good choice for growers in more northern climates. Most apple trees are hardy to Zone 5. This variety is a cross between a Yellow Transparent and a Montgomery, with larger fruits but more similar in taste to the Yellow Transparent.

Though they are delicious, Lodi apples have a short shelf life, about 2 weeks, and are not a good storage apple. However, they can be sliced and frozen or canned in order to extend the harvest. The soft, creamy flesh is perfect for pies and applesauce.

The tree is native to Trinidad, Washington, which is home to many of the best apple varieties for producing fruit.

Lodi Apple Tree Care

Like most other fruit tree, Lodi seedlings are budded onto rootstock. When planting, be sure the graft remains above the surface of the soil, and that temperatures are cool but with no sustained freezes in the long-term forecast.

You’ll want to soak the roots in a bucket of water prior to planting. When digging a hole, keep it about twice as wide and deep as the root spread. Then go ahead and work out the air pockets and water the tree well. A young lodi tree may require some staking and shaping in its first few years.

Standard size trees will take 6 to 10 years to bear fruit. A semi-dwarf variety will take 4 to 6 years and the dwarf variety bears fruit in 3 to 4 years. Lodi apple trees tend to be alternate bearing which means they produce the most fruit every other year. They are considered to be quite prolific apple trees so you can expect a bountiful harvest every 2 years.

Be sure to continue caring for your apple tree, as you’ll need a healthy tree with a strong scaffold in order to hold all of the heavy fruits.

Lodi apples are harvested in late June and early July, which is when their large, greenish-yellow fruits are at their peak flavor. Since its skin is on the thinner side and has few pores, they have a tart-sweet flavor.

There are several diseases that can impact apple trees, but the good news is that Lodi apple trees are considered to be both scab and powdery mildew resistant.1

Light

The Lodi apple tree will grow best when planted in a full sun location.

Soil

When planting a Lodi apple tree, be sure to go with well-draining, loamy soil. Like most apple trees, the soil pH should be between 6 and 7.

Water

The Lodi apple tree should be regularly watered, particularly in the first three years after planting.

Temperature and Humidity

The lodi apple tree is considered to be cold hardy, but it will always bear fruit in the summer.

Fertilizer

Early season apples for the Lodi tree will need low-nitrogen fertilizer. The fertilization process can begin two years after planting.

Rake the fertilizer evenly into the soil around the base out to about 2 feet and be sure to keep it about 6 inches away from the trunk.

The process can be repeated after three months and should be applied in a three-foot circle around the tree after it reaches two years of age.

Varieties of Apple Trees

Like many other varieties, these plants will require pollinating partners; some common partners are Starkspur Ultramac, Cortland, Red Jonathan, and Stark Braestar. Some other popular apple tree varieties include:

• Golden Delicious
• Cortland
• Ginger Gold
• Liberty
• Paulared
• Granny Smith
• Northern Spy
• Rome
• Early Apple Harvest
• Haralred
• State Fair
• Freedom
• Beacon
• Enterprise
• Haralred
• Macoun
• Cortland
• Gala
• Honeycrisp
• Red Free

Pruning

You’ll want to prune most apple trees either late in the winter or early in the spring, so that cuts won’t be left unprotected against the coldest winter temperatures.

Pruning is important for apple trees because it helps create a basic structure for the tree as well as a sturdy scaffold to support the weight of the heavy fruits. Generally speaking, pruned apple trees also tend to generate a higher yield of fruit.

When it is time to put up a birdhouse, whether you are putting up a new house for the first time or repositioning an old house, understanding how to best hang the house will make it more attractive to nesting birds. Properly mounted birdhouses are also easier to monitor and care for, ensuring plenty of birding excitement for many nesting seasons to come.

Factors to Consider When Mounting a Birdhouse

Many birders take great care to select a birdhouse with suitable dimensions, features, and colors for their favorite cavity-nesting species. Even the best house, however, will not attract birds if it is not mounted properly. A number of different factors need to be considered when planning how to hang a birdhouse, including:

• • Mounting Mechanism: How the house is mounted affects its safety and security. Many birdhouses are designed to be attached to a tree, building, or pole where they will be stable and comfortable to birds. Some designs can also be hung with hooks, wires, ropes, or chains. Some birds don’t mind a bit of swinging, though other species will avoid less stable houses. To be safe, research the mounting mechanism your backyard birds prefer before putting up the house.
  • Location: Ideally, the house should be in a private area somewhat remote from nearby feeders or bird baths where a lot of other activity could make brooding parents anxious. Placing a birdhouse in a more concealed area helps camouflage the house, and nearby branches for perching will give adult birds a good place to watch over their family. Some birds, however, such as bluebirds and purple martins, do prefer birdhouses in more open areas.
  • Height: Different species have different preferences for the heights at which they will build their nests (see list below). Higher houses unattached to trees or posts that can be climbed are generally safer from feral cats and similar predators, but they can be more difficult to mount, clean, and monitor. It is most important that the house is mounted safely and securely, even if the height may not be ideal or convenient for birders.

• Climate: In excessively rainy areas, it is best to mount a birdhouse in a sheltered area, while in a very hot region, a cooler, shaded location is essential. The entrance hole should always be facing away from prevailing winds to help protect delicate hatchlings from stiff breezes or wind-driven rain.
• Safety: Regardless of where the house is mounted, it should be sturdy and resistant to wobbling, slipping, or falling. Baffles placed above and below the house can help deter predators such as raccoons, rats, and snakes, and the birdhouse itself should be designed to be safe.
• Monitoring and Cleaning: No matter which birds will be using the house, birders must be able to access the house regularly for proper cleaning and, if desired, to monitor any hatchlings. Mount the house where there is sturdy, level ground below if a stool or ladder will be required to reach it.
• Other Houses: Even social, gregarious birds need privacy to feel secure when raising a family. A good rule of thumb is no more than 4 birdhouses per acre at a time, with the exception of homes for colonial species such as purple martins.1 Mounting several houses, however, will give birds a greater selection for choosing the location they prefer and will increase the chances of birds nesting in the yard, even if not every house is used at once.

A Word About Window Houses

Several models of window-mount birdhouses with clear or one-way mirror back panels are available, with the enticing promise of allowing birders to watch birds raising their families with comfortable indoor viewing. While some birds will use these houses, it is still important that the houses be sturdily mounted, preferably on a window of a quiet room so nesting parents are stressed as little as possible. If birds do use the house, observers should avoid tapping on the glass, shining lights into the nesting box, or otherwise disturbing the birds while the nest is being brooded or when the chicks are young. Using curtains inside the room can help keep disturbances to a minimum, and curtains are easy to move slightly aside to check the house. If nesting birds are disturbed too much, the parents may abandon their nest, or the chicks could try to leave the nest prematurely.2

More Tips for Mounting Birdhouses

To make the most of every location you choose for mounting a birdhouse and to make it as attractive as possible to breeding birds:

• Use the best hardware and proper mounting equipment to ensure security and stability.
• Offer nesting material nearby to entice birds to use the birdhouse more readily.
• Put up the house early so it is available as soon as birds begin looking for real estate.
• Check the house after storms or severe weather and repair any damage if needed.
• Leave the birdhouse up through fall and winter as a bird roost box for extra shelter.

Birds may not seem picky about where they nest each year, but taking care to hang birdhouses in the best possible way will make them even more attractive to all the cavity-nesting birds that need a place to call home.

Best Bird House Mounting Heights

The following heights (in feet and meters) are the ideal ranges for how high to mount birdhouses for different species.

• Barn owls – 8-25′ (2-8 m)
• Bluebirds – 4-6′ (1-2 m)
• Chickadees – 5-15′ (2-5 m)
• Finches – 5-10′ (2-3 m)
• Nuthatches – 5-10′ (2-3 m)
• Purple martins – 10-15′ (3-5 m)
• Screech owls – 10-30′ (3-9 m)
• Titmice – 5-15′ (2-5 m)
• Wood ducks – 6-30′ (2-9 m)
• Woodpeckers – 10-20′ (3-6 m)
• Wrens – 6-10′ (2-3 m)

While these heights may be the preferred mounting places for birdhouses, birders should be aware that birds are quite flexible with height requirements and may easily choose a home outside their ideal range. If houses are mounted safely at approximately the proper height, they will easily be attractive homes for birds that use houses.