– An electric machine is an electromagnetic device whose working principle is based on the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction, composed of an electromagnetic circuit and has the function of converting mechanical energy into electrical energy or vice versa or changing electrical parameters. such as voltage, current, frequency, and phase angle changes.

2. Classification of Electrical Machines

Classification based on relative motion between machine parts:
• Static electric machine: A type of electric machine in which there is no relative motion between the parts of the machine. ( transformers ). Classified according to the current attached to the machine, there are two types:
• Rotating electric machine: A type of electric machine whose structure has rotating moving parts (generator, electric motor).
Classified according to the current attached to the machine, there are two types:
• DC machine: It is a type of electrical machine in which the electric current attached to it is direct current.
• Alternating electric machine: Is a type of electric machine in which the current attached to it is alternating current (there are two types: 3-phase electric machine and 1-phase electric machine).
Classified according to the relationship between the rotation speed of the rotor and the rotation speed of the rotating magnetic field. (synchronous and asynchronous electrical machines)
• Synchronous electric machine: A type of electric machine whose rotor speed is equal to the rotation speed of the rotating magnetic field.
• Asynchronous electric machine: A type of electric machine in which the speed of the rotor is different from the speed of the rotating magnetic field.
Classified according to the use of the machine: generator, motor, transformer, speed generator…

4. Classification of electrical machines

Transformers

Some types of transformers

1. Electricity transformer: used to transmit and distribute electricity.
2. Small capacity transformer: used for switchgear and household electronic devices.
3. Autotransformer: small capacity, used in homes, capable of adjusting secondary voltage to suit electrical appliances when primary voltage changes.
4. Special transformers: welding transformers, rectifier transformers…DC MACHINERY

AC ELECTRIC MACHINE
1. Asynchronous electric machines:

ALTERNATING SYNCHRONOUS ELECTRIC MACHINE

Some practical applications

A synchronous motor is an AC motor, operating at a constant speed determined by the frequency of the system.
This type of motor requires direct current (DC) for excitation and has low starting torque, so synchronous motors are suitable for starting equipment at low loads such as air compressors, frequency converters, etc. shift number or generator.
Synchronous motors can improve system power factor, which is why they are often used with power-intensive systems.
COMMON DAMAGES OF ELECTRICAL MACHINERY
Alternating machine:

Insulation failure between phases and between phases and machine case.
Worn and broken carbon brushes with synchronous electric machines with carbon brushes.
Broken exciter from synchronous machine.
Shaft stuck due to rust or damaged bearings

Check the Thermostat

One of the first steps in troubleshooting a malfunctioning air conditioner at home is to check the thermostat.

The thermostat plays a crucial role in regulating your AC system’s temperature and operation. Here’s how to perform this essential check:
1. Verify the Thermostat Settings:
Ensure that your thermostat is set to the desired temperature and mode, whether it’s cooling or heating. Sometimes, an accidental adjustment or mode change can result in discomfort.
2. Replace Thermostat Batteries:
If your thermostat is battery-powered, low batteries can cause it to malfunction. Replace the batteries with fresh ones to rule out this common issue.

3. Clean the Thermostat:
Dust and debris can accumulate around the thermostat’s sensors and affect its accuracy. Gently clean the thermostat with a soft brush or compressed air to remove any obstructions.
4. Check for Wiring Issues:
Inspect the thermostat’s wiring for loose or damaged connections. Make sure all wires are securely attached to their terminals. If you notice any loose wires or frayed insulation, consult your thermostat’s manual for wiring diagrams and correct any issues.
5. Test the Thermostat:
To verify that your thermostat is functioning correctly, set it to a temperature lower than the current room temperature (for cooling) or higher (for heating). You should hear a clicking sound as the thermostat calls for your AC unit or furnace to turn on. If you don’t hear this click, there may be a problem with the thermostat.
6. Calibrate the Thermostat:
Some thermostats allow you to calibrate their temperature readings. If you find that your thermostat consistently displays inaccurate temperatures, consult the manual to calibrate it correctly.
7. Install a Programmable Thermostat:
Consider upgrading to a programmable or smart thermostat. These devices offer advanced features like scheduling and remote control, which can enhance your AC’s efficiency and comfort.

By carefully checking your thermostat and addressing any issues you discover, you can often resolve minor AC problems and maintain a comfortable indoor environment.

However, if your thermostat appears to be functioning correctly, and the issue persists, it’s advisable to explore other possible causes of AC malfunctions or seek professional assistance. Remember that accurate thermostat settings are crucial for efficient cooling and heating. Regularly checking and maintaining your thermostat can contribute to your overall comfort and energy savings.

Inspect the Air Filter

Inspecting the air filter of your air conditioning system is a fundamental step in maintaining its efficiency and performance. A clogged or dirty air filter can restrict airflow, reduce cooling capacity, and strain the system. Here’s how to inspect and address your air filter:
1. Locate the Air Filter:
The air filter is typically found in the return air duct, near the air handler or furnace. It may also be situated behind a grille in a wall or ceiling.
2. Turn Off the System:
Before you begin, it’s essential to turn off your air conditioning system. This ensures your safety during the inspection and prevents dust and debris from circulating.
3. Remove the Air Filter:
Carefully remove the air filter from its housing. Depending on your system, this may involve sliding it out of a slot or releasing latches.

4. Inspect the Filter:
Hold the air filter up to the light and examine it. If you can’t see light passing through or if the filter appears visibly dirty and clogged with dust and debris, it’s time for maintenance.

5. Replace or Clean the Filter:
Depending on the type of air filter your system uses, you have two options:

• Disposable Filters: If you have a disposable filter, replace it with a new one. Ensure you select the correct size and type recommended for your system.
• Reusable Filters: For reusable filters, wash it thoroughly with warm, soapy water. Allow it to dry completely before reinserting it into the housing.

6. Set a Regular Maintenance Schedule: To ensure optimal performance, establish a regular schedule for inspecting and changing or cleaning your air filter. It’s recommended to do this every 1 to 3 months, but check your system’s manual for specific guidance.

7. Consider Upgrading Your Filter: If you have allergies or want to improve indoor air quality, consider upgrading to a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter or an electrostatic filter. These options can capture smaller particles and allergens, providing cleaner air.

8. Reinstall the Filter: Once your filter is clean or replaced, securely reinstall it into the housing, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure it fits snugly to prevent air bypass. A clean and well-maintained air filter not only promotes better indoor air quality but also ensures that your air conditioning system operates efficiently. It can extend the lifespan of your system and reduce energy consumption, leading to potential cost savings.

Conclusion Regularly inspecting and maintaining your air filter is a simple yet effective way to keep your air conditioner running smoothly. By following these steps and incorporating filter maintenance into your routine, you can enjoy improved indoor air quality and a more efficient cooling system.

Clean the Condenser Coils

Cleaning the condenser coils of your air conditioning system is crucial for maintaining its efficiency and prolonging its lifespan. Over time, these coils can accumulate dirt, dust, and debris, hindering the heat transfer process. Here’s how to clean them effectively:

1. Turn Off the Power: Always turn off the power to your AC unit before starting any maintenance tasks. You can do this by switching off the circuit breaker or disconnecting the unit from its power source.

2. Access the Condenser Unit: Locate the outdoor condenser unit, which is typically positioned outside your home. It resembles a large metal box with fan blades on the top.

3. Remove Debris: Clear away any leaves, grass, or debris that may have accumulated around the unit. Ensure that there is at least two feet of clearance around the condenser to allow for proper airflow.

4. Clean the Coils: Use a hose to gently spray the condenser coils from top to bottom. Start by spraying water at a gentle pressure to remove surface dirt and debris. Avoid using a high-pressure hose, as this can damage the coils.

5. Apply a Coil Cleaner: For stubborn dirt or debris buildup, you can use a commercial coil cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and wait for the recommended time before rinsing.

6. Rinse Thoroughly: After applying the cleaner, rinse the coils thoroughly with clean water. Ensure that all the cleaning solution is washed away.

7. Straighten Bent Fins: Inspect the aluminum fins on the coils. If you notice any bent or damaged fins, use a fin comb or a flat tool to carefully straighten them. This helps maintain proper airflow.8. Reassemble and Power On: After cleaning and straightening, reassemble any parts you removed and turn the power back on.

Cleaning the condenser coils at least once a year can significantly enhance your air conditioner’s efficiency and cooling performance, allowing it to operate more effectively.

Clear the Condensate Drain

The condensate drain plays a crucial role in removing excess moisture produced during the cooling process. If this drain becomes clogged, it can lead to water leaks and reduced cooling efficiency. Here’s how to clear it:
1. Locate the Drain Line: Find the condensate drain line, typically located near the indoor air handler. It’s a PVC pipe that extends from the unit.
2. Turn Off the Power: As with any maintenance task, turn off the power to your AC unit to ensure safety.
3. Clear the Blockage: Insert a wet/dry vacuum cleaner’s hose into the drain line’s opening. Seal any gaps around the hose with a cloth or duct tape to create a tight seal.
4. Apply Suction: Turn on the vacuum cleaner to create suction within the drain line. This should help remove any blockages, such as algae or debris.
5. Flush with Water: Once you’ve cleared the blockage, pour a mixture of one part bleach and one part water into the drain line to prevent future algae growth. This also helps clean the line further.
6. Check for Proper Drainage: To ensure the drain line is clear, pour a small amount of water into the drain pan. It should flow freely through the drain line to the outside.
7. Reassemble and Power On: After completing the task, reassemble any components you removed and turn the power back on. Clearing the condensate drain is a relatively simple task that can prevent water damage to your home and maintain your AC’s efficiency.

Inspect the Electrical Connections

Proper electrical connections are essential for the safe and efficient operation of your air conditioner. Regularly inspecting these connections can prevent electrical issues and system malfunctions:
1. Turn Off the Power: Always start by turning off the power to your AC unit at the circuit breaker or disconnect switch.
2. Access the Electrical Panel: Locate the electrical panel on the side of your outdoor condenser unit. It typically has a removable cover.

3. Inspect Wiring: Examine the wiring and connections inside the panel. Look for loose, frayed, or damaged wires. Pay close attention to the connections at the contactor and capacitor.
4. Tighten Loose Connections: If you find any loose connections, use a wrench or screwdriver to securely tighten them. Be cautious and gentle to avoid damaging the wires.
5. Replace Damaged Wiring: If you encounter damaged or frayed wires, replace them immediately. Use wires of the same gauge and type as the originals.
6. Check for Corrosion: Look for signs of corrosion or rust on the electrical components. If corrosion is present, clean it using a wire brush and apply a corrosion-resistant coating.
7. Verify Wiring Diagram: Consult your air conditioner’s wiring diagram, typically located inside the unit’s service panel. Ensure that the connections match the diagram.
8. Reassemble and Power On: After completing the inspection and any necessary repairs, reassemble the electrical panel and turn the power back on. Regularly inspecting and maintaining electrical connections can prevent electrical failures, ensure safety, and prolong the life of your air conditioning system.

Check the Capacitor

The capacitor in your air conditioning system is responsible for starting the motors that drive the compressor and fan. A malfunctioning capacitor can lead to a non-starting AC unit. Here’s how to check it:
1. Turn Off the Power: Always turn off the power to your AC unit before inspecting or replacing the capacitor.
2. Locate the Capacitor: Capacitors are typically located in the outdoor condenser unit. There may be two capacitors—one for the fan motor and one for the compressor.
3. Discharge the Capacitor: To ensure safety, discharge the stored electrical energy from the capacitor by using a screwdriver with an insulated handle. Carefully touch the metal end of the screwdriver to both terminals of the capacitor.
4. Examine the Capacitor: Look for signs of damage, such as a bulging or leaking casing. If the capacitor appears swollen or has oily residue, it likely needs replacement.
5. Test the Capacitance: Use a multimeter with a capacitance setting to test the capacitance of the capacitor. Compare the reading to the manufacturer’s specifications. If it falls significantly below the specified range, the capacitor is faulty.

6. Replace the Capacitor: If the capacitor fails the test or shows signs of damage, replace it with a new one of the same capacitance rating.
7. Reassemble and Power On: After replacing the capacitor, reassemble any components you removed and turn the power back on. A functioning capacitor is essential for starting the motors in your AC unit. Replacing a faulty capacitor can often resolve a non-starting AC system.

Examine the Fan Motor

The fan motor in your air conditioner is responsible for circulating air over the condenser coils and through your home. An improperly functioning fan motor can lead to poor cooling performance. Here’s how to examine it:
1. Turn Off the Power: As always, start by turning off the power to your AC unit to ensure safety during inspection.
2. Access the Fan Motor: Depending on your system, you may need to remove a protective grille or panel to access the fan motor.
3. Check for Obstructions: Inspect the fan blades for any obstructions, such as leaves, debris, or damage. Clear any blockages to ensure smooth operation.

4. Lubricate the Motor: If your fan motor has oil ports, lubricate it according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Proper lubrication reduces friction and extends the motor’s life.
5. Listen for Unusual Noises: Turn on the AC unit and listen for any unusual noises coming from the fan motor. Unusual grinding or squealing sounds may indicate a problem.
6. Test the Motor: Test the motor’s performance by monitoring the speed and responsiveness of the fan. If it’s slow to start, doesn’t reach full speed, or operates inconsistently, the motor may need attention.
7. Replace if Necessary: If you encounter any significant issues with the fan motor, consider replacing it with a compatible and appropriately sized motor.
8. Reassemble and Power On: After any necessary maintenance or replacement, reassemble the components and turn the power back on. A properly functioning fan motor is essential for efficient cooling. Regular inspection and maintenance can help ensure that the fan motor operates optimally.

Investigate Refrigerant Levels

Refrigerant is the lifeblood of your air conditioning system, and having the correct refrigerant levels is vital for efficient cooling. Here’s how to investigate and address refrigerant levels:
1. Safety First: Always prioritize safety by turning off the power to your AC unit before beginning any maintenance.
2. Locate the Refrigerant Lines: The refrigerant lines connect the indoor and outdoor components of your AC system. They are typically covered with insulation.
3. Inspect for Leaks: Examine the refrigerant lines for signs of oil stains or frost accumulation, as these can indicate refrigerant leaks. If you suspect a leak, it’s essential to contact a professional technician for repairs.
4. Monitor Cooling Performance: Keep an eye on the cooling performance of your AC system. If it’s taking longer to cool your space or not maintaining the desired temperature, it could be a sign of low refrigerant levels.
5. Check the Refrigerant Pressure: A professional HVAC technician can check the refrigerant pressure with specialized gauges. Low refrigerant levels may indicate a leak or other issues within the system.
6. Schedule a Professional Inspection: If you suspect refrigerant issues or experience decreased cooling efficiency, it’s best to schedule a professional inspection. Certified technicians can diagnose and address refrigerant-related problems. Maintaining proper refrigerant levels is essential for your AC’s cooling capacity. Regular inspections and professional servicing can help ensure that your system operates at its best.

Inspect Ductwork

Your air conditioning system relies on a network of ducts to distribute cooled air throughout your home. Leaky or damaged ducts can result in uneven cooling and increased energy consumption. Here’s how to inspect and address issues with your ductwork:

1. Turn Off the Power: Begin by turning off the power to your AC system to ensure safety during inspection.
2. Access the Ducts: Depending on your system’s design, you may need to access the ducts in your attic, crawl space, or basement. Locate the areas where the ducts are accessible.
3. Inspect for Leaks: Carefully examine the ducts for any visible signs of leaks or damage. Look for disconnected joints, holes, or tears in the ductwork. 
4. Seal Leaky Joints: If you identify any leaks or gaps in the duct joints, seal them with duct mastic or foil tape. Ensure a secure and airtight connection.
5. Check for Insulation: Inspect the ducts for proper insulation. If the insulation is damaged or missing, consider adding or replacing it to improve energy efficiency.
6. Monitor Airflow: Turn on your AC system and monitor airflow through the vents in each room. Uneven or weak airflow may indicate ductwork issues that need attention.
7. Schedule Professional Duct Inspection: For a thorough evaluation of your ductwork’s condition and performance, consider scheduling a professional duct inspection. Duct specialists can pinpoint hidden issues and recommend necessary repairs or improvements.
8. Reassemble and Power On: After completing any necessary repairs or improvements, reassemble the access points and turn the power back on. Properly sealed and insulated ducts ensure efficient cooling and heating in your home. Regular duct inspections and maintenance can help you identify and address any issues promptly. Know When to Call a Professional While DIY maintenance can address many air conditioning issues, there are times when it’s essential to call a professional HVAC technician. Here are some signs that indicate it’s time to seek professional assistance:

• Refrigerant Issues: Low refrigerant levels or suspected leaks require professional diagnosis and repair.
• Complex Electrical Problems: Electrical issues beyond loose connections or capacitor replacement should be handled by a professional.
• Compressor or Motor Failure: If your compressor or fan motor fails, it’s best to call a technician for assessment and replacement.
• Strange Sounds or Smells: Unusual noises or odors emanating from your AC system may indicate underlying problems that need professional attention.
• Persistent Performance Issues: If your AC system continues to underperform despite DIY efforts, a technician can identify and address the root cause.

Professional technicians have the knowledge and equipment to diagnose and resolve complex air conditioning problems safely and effectively.

Conclusion

Regular maintenance and inspection of your air conditioning system are essential for keeping it running efficiently and extending its lifespan. While some tasks can be performed by homeowners, it’s crucial to know when to call a professional technician for more complex issues. By following these guidelines and staying vigilant, you can enjoy consistent and efficient cooling in your home.

Few qualities are more vital to your home’s health than its ability to stay dry, even in the wettest of conditions. When the home has a basement, those needs are ratcheted up even more due to the basement’s below-grade level and its proximity to the water table.

A reliably dry basement expands your living space, often doubling it. A finished basement—or even an unfinished but dry basement—increases your home’s value and guarantees that the home’s structure and upper floors will remain in good condition.

Why Your Basement Needs to Be Dry

Your basement should stay dry in case you want to renovate it into a habitable space. Minus vital services located in the basement such as the water heater, furnace, and washer and dryer, a finished basement can mirror the square footage of the floor directly above. A 1,000 square foot home can transform into a nearly 2,000 square foot home with a smart, well-planned basement finishing project.

With this, the stakes are high to create a dry space for those renovations. Few surfaces in the finished basement tolerate moisture well: drywall, carpeting, paint, and even hard flooring such as laminate or engineered wood flooring.

If you do not plan to remodel the basement, you’ll still want to keep your basement as dry as possible. Moisture can rot away building materials, including elements vital to your home’s structural integrity, and mold and mildew can develop. While not all molds are toxic, some molds can produce harmful mycotoxins.

Basics of Basement Waterproofing

Basement waterproofing is not a single project. Common quick fixes like coating the inside of your basement wall or clearing gutters alone will not solve wet basement issues. Instead, waterproofing is a group of interlocking projects that coordinate to bring your basement to its driest possible condition.

Think of your house as having three concentric rings or zones—outermost, middle, and inner— that work together to keep your home’s basement dry.

The outermost ring is the space outside of the home but not connected to the house itself. This includes improperly graded earth that sends water toward your house. Your goal in this area is to stop the water before it can even reach your home.

The middle ring is your home’s exterior envelope. This is the exterior house itself: foundation wall, gutters, drainpipes, windows, window well covers. Here, you’ll want to make sure that water-elimination systems are doing their job and that the water protection systems keep water from entering your home.

Finally, the inner ring or zone is everything inside of the basement, including the interior side of the foundation wall, flooring, and sump pump (if you have one).

Causes of a Wet Basement

• Poorly Graded Soil: Earth next to your house that is level or which slopes back to the house can send water alongside the foundation, where it can seep into the house.
• Missing or Improperly Draining Gutters and Downspouts: Gutters that are blocked can cascade water over the sides and next to the foundation. Downspouts may be missing pieces designed to send water away from the house.
• Poorly Designed Window Wells: Window wells are the pockets in the earth around basement windows. Wells can pool up with water.
• Poorly Installed Window Well Covers: Window well covers are designed to prevent debris and water from reaching basement windows. If covers are loose or missing, water may reach and infiltrate basement windows.
• Ineffective Drain Tile: Drain tile is a buried drainage system close around the outer perimeter of a house. Tile is a misnomer since it’s not actually tile but pipe. This pipe may become blocked or crushed.
• Blocked French Drains: French drains are buried drain systems that can become blocked with soil or roots.
• Sump Pump Not Draining: Inside the basement, an inoperable or poorly operating sump pump cannot drain rising water.
• Water Up Through the Sump: In flood conditions, water can sometimes come into the basement up through the sump pit.
• Structural Cracks: Cracks in the foundation wall can permit water to flow into the basement.

Exterior Yard Methods of Stopping Water

Grade the Soil Away From the Home

Use a shovel, wheelbarrow, and rake to create a slope that extends downward and away from the foundation wall. A 5-percent slope is considered sufficient (about 6 inches of drop per 10 feet). Make sure that the slope extends at least 10 feet to prevent water from draining back to the house. Keep the soil away from the siding.

Develop a Robust Drainage System

Create a drainage system of catch basins that receive downspout water and move the water far away from the house along buried 4-inch sewer pipes. Bring the ends of the pipes to daylight, if possible. If not, the water can exit through pop-up drains located in the yard. Ideally, all downspout water should drain to the property line or as close to it as possible.

Build or Fix French Drains

Identify areas of your yard where water collects or where it moves back toward the house. Dig a trench and install a French drain. This is a perforated pipe covered with dirt-inhibiting cloth, then a layer of gravel, and then refilled with earth and sod.

Create Barriers

For windows or other basement openings that extend below-grade in flood-prone areas, water-tight barriers can be constructed that act as dams to hold back water. FEMA, the Federal Emergency Management Agency, recommends watertight masonry barriers or earth berms in areas that experience flooding.

Exterior House Methods of Basement Waterproofing

Add or Fix Window Well Covers

Galvanized steel or molded plastic pieces called windows wells are attached to the home’s exterior foundation. Window wells can also be fitted with window well covers.

Though window wells are chiefly designed to prevent soil collapse and to keep your window clear of debris, they can help with moisture infiltration, too. Enclosing the window wells with well covers prevents water and snow from reaching the window.

Window wells scoop out a section of the earth around the window to permit light and air to reach basements and to aid with egress. As with grading the soil away from the foundation, make sure that window wells do not direct water toward the basement window.

Waterproof or Damp-proof Seal the Foundation Wall

Damp-proofing is a common method where an asphalt-based material is brushed, rolled, or sometimes sprayed onto the outer foundation wall.

Waterproofing is a more involved project where thick rolls of impermeable material are bonded to the outside of the foundation. All seams are lapped to prevent water leakage.

Some foundation waterproofing methods use a sprayed-on material comparable to the thickness of the solid materials. The product is a liquid-rubber, elastomeric coating that must be applied multiple times to achieve the proper thickness.

Fix or Add Gutters and Downspouts

While fixing gutters and downspouts might seem like one of the more prosaic ways to waterproof a basement, it’s actually one of the most efficient methods—especially when the cost-to-benefit ratio is considered.

Downspouts lacking extensions drive water directly against the foundation with potentially devastating effects. So, for the minimal cost of an extension, you can save thousands of dollars in damage to your foundation.

• Fix sagging gutters so that they have a proper slope.
• Fix loose downspouts and add extensions.
• Seal gutters to prevent leaks.
• Clear out clogged gutters and downspouts.

Interior Methods of Basement Waterproofing

The best-case scenario is that you should not have to employ any interior methods of waterproofing your basement if exterior methods can do the job. But the reality of basements is that you’ll often need to extend your attention to the inside.

Interior Foundation Coatings

Waterproofing coatings roll or brush onto the inside of concrete block, poured concrete, or other types of masonry foundation walls. These ready-mix products usually come in white or neutral colors but can be tinted. Application is easy and usually fairly quick, depending on the scale of the project. Most waterproofing coatings drying in about three hours to allow for additional coats.

Waterproof coatings are the last line of defense for damp or leaky walls. Most coatings have a 10 to 15 psi water pressure rating. These coatings are effective at managing damp basement foundation walls.

Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are a common feature in basements that have problems with groundwater intrusion. They can, however, also clear flooding from within the basement.

Install a sump (the basin or pit portion) plus a sump pump if your basement has water issues. If you already have a sump pump, keep it well-maintained.

Dehumidifiers

If your basement humidity level is more than 50-percent, likely it’s too high. A better basement humidity range is between 30- and 50-percent.

You can remove excess moisture in the air with dehumidifiers. Most dehumidifiers can pull between 30 to 60 pints of water from the air per day. In cold climates, one residual benefit of dehumidifying your basement is that drier air will feel warmer than moist air.

Cost of Basement Waterproofing

The cost of waterproofing your basement ranges dramatically. If your waterproofing plan is complete except for just one element such as a dehumidifier, interior waterproofing, or gutter extensions, expect to spend $50 to $200 to bring the plan to completion.

Self-installing a window well and window well cover will cost between $75 and $200.

Hiring a professional to install French drains costs between $20 and $30 per linear foot.

Re-grading the soil by yourself requires no materials. So, the only cost would be the cost of tools.

Gutter and downspout materials are inexpensive. Ten feet of PVC or metal gutters cost between $10 and $20, with downspouts in the $10 to $15 range. Downspout extensions cost between $5 and $20.

How Long Dishwashers Last

The average lifespan of dishwashers is nine to 10 years. How long a dishwasher lasts is affected by factors such as the dishwasher quality, frequency of use, and home water quality.

Owners may be able to extend a dishwasher to the end of its lifespan by keeping out items that damage the machine, loading the machine correctly, and cleaning, maintaining, and repairing the dishwasher on a regular basis.

5 Factors That Influence Dishwasher Lifespan

Several factors—all within the owner’s control—affect how long dishwashers last.

• Dishwasher quality: Buy the best dishwasher possible within the limits of your budget. Choosing the best dishwasher helps with improved noise levels, cleaning effectiveness, energy efficiency—and with lifespan.
• Expert installation: Have the dishwasher installed correctly to prevent problems from developing down the line. Either hire a qualified appliance technician to install the dishwasher or install the dishwasher yourself with guidance and instructions.
• Frequency of use and age: The more the dishwasher is run, the sooner it will wear out. Running the dishwasher less often will extend its lifespan—to a limit. At the same time, all appliances will age out on their own, even if they are not being operated.
• Water quality: Dishwashers wash more effectively and last longer when they use better-quality water. The water should be soft, with only low amounts of lime. Run tap water over a water hardness test strip to measure water softness. Tests are often found in the introductory packet or they can be purchased at most home centers. If your home has hard water, choose the best water softener within your budget. Install the water softener by yourself or hire a technician or plumber to do the work.
• Cleaning, maintenance, and repair: Regular cleaning, maintenance, and repair can be done by yourself and all will help your dishwasher last longer.

How to Make Dishwashers Last Longer

Extend the lifespan of your dishwasher by loading the dishwasher with the correct items and placing them the right way. Also keep the dishwasher clean, maintained, and repaired and do so on a regular basis.

Wash Correct Items Only

Wash dishes, cooking pans, and other kitchen items in the dishwasher. Avoid washing inappropriate items like car parts, dirty sporting goods, and candlestick holders. A few non-kitchen items are safe for the dishwasher such as some kid’s toys, toothbrush holders, pet bowls, and hair brushes and combs.

Load the Dishwasher Correctly

Be sure to load the dishwasher the right way every time. Machines vary, but generally lightweight items go on the top rack, heavier items on the bottom, and all items should be well-spaced. Follow the organization of the racks’ tines rather than overriding them. Placing items only in pre-designated spaces will space out the items correctly.

Clean the Dishwasher

Clean the dishwasher on a regular basis. Add one cup of distilled white vinegar to a dishwasher-safe bowl. Empty the dishwasher. Place the bowl on the top rack of the dishwasher, without spilling the liquid. Run for a full cycle. Clean the dishwasher once a month.

Maintain the Dishwasher

Keep the dishwasher in good shape by maintaining the machine by yourself.

• Keep an eye on the bottom of the dishwasher for leakage and proper drainage.
• Clear the dishwasher drain.
• Check the air vents so they remain free and open.
• Clean the spray arms with a thin, flexible wire (to clear mineral deposits or debris) if the dishwasher leaves dirty dishes.
• Remove and clean the dishwasher filter by soaking it in warm, soapy water and brushing with a toothbrush.

Repair the Dishwasher

Fix the dishwasher before minor issues turn into larger problems that can damage the machine. You can do many dishwasher repairs by yourself.

With basic tools and by ordering parts online, most homeowners should be able to fix the float, seal a leaking door, or fix a drain. For dishwashers that don’t heat up, you can even remove and replace the heating element by yourself.

Signs It’s Time to Replace the Dishwasher

• Rust has appeared: Rust on the body of the dishwasher or other integrated parts is a bad sign and usually means that the machine should be replaced. Rust on some removable parts like racks and tines isn’t an issue since the parts are easily replaced.
• Cracks have developed: Cracks in the body of the dishwasher, tub, or door cannot be successfully repaired.
• Machine is not energy efficient: Dishwashers that pre-date EnergyStar energy efficiency standards cost you energy and money. Dated, energy inefficient dishwashers can also be a hindrance if you are selling your home.
• Repairs cost more than replacement: Dishwasher repairs are meant to keep the machine running for the long term, but only at a minimal cost. When the cost of repairs reaches or exceeds the cost of replacement, the machine needs to be replaced.
• Dishwasher is 10 years old or more: Even if the dishwasher is still washing efficiently at the end of 10 years, you may want to consider replacing it to avoid the possibility of leaks. Dishwasher leaks can have devastating and expensive effects, damaging the kitchen floor, subfloor, cabinets, and the ceiling below.

Repair vs. Replace the Dishwasher

When a dishwasher develops problems or stops cleaning as well as it once did, it now becomes a question of whether to repair or replace the dishwasher.

Can you do maintenance and repairs yourself?

If you can repair the dishwasher by yourself and don’t mind doing so, then it is likely less expensive to repair the dishwasher than to replace it. From a financial standpoint, it makes more sense to keep repairing the dishwasher, as long as it still adequately cleans the dishes.

What is the annual cost of professional repairs vs. replacement?

New dishwashers start at around $400 to $500 for standard name-brand 24-inch built-in models with limited features. The cost of new dishwashers peaks out at around $1,700 to $2,300 for high-end name-brand models with features like custom front panels, ultra-quiet operation, and hidden controls.2

Calculate the average cost of a new dishwasher—around $700 to $800—against your annual repair costs. If you’re paying $200 to $400 per visit to repair your dishwasher, it’s probably time to replace it.

Do you intend to sell the home and when?

Knowing that dishwashers last about 10 years, how does that factor into your plans for staying in the house or selling it?

If you plan to stay in the home for five to 10 years, it’s to your advantage to replace the machine. If you will be selling the home sooner than that, you may want to keep on maintaining and repairing the machine.

Your real estate agent can advise you about resale advantages. The question is whether it’s best to sell an aged-out dishwasher along with the house or to install a new dishwasher only for the benefit of the buyer but which may encourage the sale.

Cement backer board is an inexpensive, convenient building material that makes tiling, flooring, and countertop projects go faster and look better in the end.

Most importantly, cement backer board contributes to a longer-lasting, more durable tile installation, with no chance of backer board rot due to the lack of organic materials in the board. On top of that, cement board also reduces the chance of rot in the underlying wall studs or floor joists.

Cement backer board, also called a cementitious backer unit or CBU, is commonly used to form a base for ceramic tile. Because cement backer board is porous, thinset, grout, and mortar adhere well to it. Backer boards can be nailed or screwed into studs or cinderblock, brick mortar, or concrete. Boards can be easily cut with a hand saw, circular saw, jigsaw, or multi-tool.

What Is Cement Backer Board?

Basics of Installing Step Flashing on a Roof

Flashing is a solid, waterproof material that prevents water from entering seams or joints in a building. Step flashing is a flashing variation that builds upward along the roof pitch, using small pieces of flashing that are interwoven with the shingles. Step flashing is usually some type of metal; aluminum and copper are popular, but stainless steel and lead are used, as well.

With roofing systems, any kind of joint or seam is an invitation for potential water leakage. Where the roof meets a wall or other upper vertical surface such as for a dormer, the problem is pronounced. Water coursing off of the wall collects in the 90-degree intersection between the wall and the roof. When snow banks up in that area, subsequent snowmelt can linger and eventually seep between the wall and the roof.

Sealing the shingles to the wall with tar, caulk, or other liquid products is a fix that rarely lasts long. Eventually, these types of sealants fail, permitting water into the home. L-shaped step flashing is flexible enough to move with the home as it expands and contracts yet it is solid enough to hold back water.

Codes, Regulations, and Permits

Most communities will not require a building permit before installing step flashing on a roof as a repair project. If the flashing is being installed while roofing or re-roofing the home, your community may require a building permit for the roofing job.

When to Install Step Flashing

Step flashing is installed when roofing shingles are installed. If the shingles are already in place, some shingles must be removed to allow installation of the step flashing. Consequently, install step flashing only in dry conditions.

Safety Considerations

Installing step flashing requires you to work on the roof. Guard against falls by wearing a fall arrest system and by working with a partner.

It’s important to understand what you’re getting into when you choose a whole home renovation. A look at the elements and the basic flow of a major home renovation will give you a sense of what’s involved and help you effectively plan the project.

Design and Plan

Whether it’s a sketch on a piece of paper or a complete set of architectural plans, start with an overall sense of your goals and how you’ll meet them. It’s always best to correct mistakes in the planning stage, long before the remodel takes physical form.

You may want to take on some of the jobs by yourself. Draw up a basic list of do-it-yourself projects and projects you want professionals to do vs. those that you think you may want to handle. Search for contractors and subcontractors. Usually, these are electricians, plumbers, structural carpenters, and foundation companies—the majority of the work.

Preliminary Projects

You may not be able to start the home renovation until other projects have first been completed. All are large projects that must be done first because subsequent projects are impacted by them.

• Foundation and structure: Address the foundation and any structural problems. Secure the foundation and make major foundation repairs to areas such as weakened walls, joists, and carrying beams.
• Roofing: Repair or replace the roof to protect the work below.
• Siding: Fix or replace the siding. If the siding is so damaged that it will allow water infiltration, repair or replace the siding. If not seriously damaged, leave it for later.
• Windows: Fix or replace any windows that are so damaged that they might leak water to the inside. If not seriously damaged, leave the window repair or replacement for later in the process.

Funding

Make sure that you have funding for your renovation. Single-room or smaller projects like remodeling a small bathroom or kitchen, painting, flooring, or even building a small room addition can conceivably be funded with cash. Whole-home renovations are so large, expensive, and lengthy that outside funding is usually necessary.

Unsecured home improvement loans typically have a $50,000 to $100,000 lending limit. These loans tend to close quickly for qualified borrowers but have higher interest rates than secured loans.HELOCs, or home equity lines of credit, are secured loans that use your home’s equity as security, and they usually have lower interest rates than personal, unsecured loans.

Permits

Apply for permits for the jobs you want to do on your own (if necessary). If you’re hiring a contractor, they will likely handle the permits for you, plus they will meet with inspectors during the process. If you apply for your own permits, you’ll need to handle all arrangement by yourself: application, inspections, and finalling out the permits (taking them to completion).

Demolition

You will demolish and dispose of sections of the house that will be replaced by later projects. This is a huge undertaking that many homeowners overlook until the project begins. Rent a large container for waste. Carefully demolish all or some of the areas of the house that will be renovated. Demolish as much as possible if you will not be living in the house.

Structural Carpentry

Carpentry that is in support of other work is known as structural carpentry. This can include moving walls, constructing new walls, adding beams to support a greater weight upstairs, adding new doors (or removing existing doors), adding framing for new construction windows, or significantly enlarging the window openings.

Many of these projects can be undertaken by an enterprising DIYer, but some projects, such as enlarging window openings, might call for a contractor’s expertise.

HVAC, Electrical, and Plumbing

HVAC, electrical, and plumbing are vital services that need to be installed when the walls and ceiling are open. Open walls and ceilings make it easier for the HVAC company to install ductwork for central heating and air conditioning and for electricians and plumbers to run new electrical and plumbing systems.

Window Installation

Window installation, whether whole-house or partial, almost always plays into a home remodel project. Installing new-construction or replacement windows is usually best done by professionals.

Insulation and Drywall

Before the drywall goes up, the insulation must go in. Look at the options for insulation, and plan to use different types for different areas of the house. You’ll need it in the walls and attic, and you might be able to do all of it yourself.

The walls will be covered with drywall, a multi-step process that involves hanging, mudding, and sanding the drywall. Repeat the mudding/sanding process until the surface is smooth and seamless. Usually, you’ll only need to come back once. Applying too much drywall mud, too little, or laying it down sloppily means multiple muddings and sandings.

Fine Carpentry

Next comes the carpentry that is not supportive: baseboards, molding, trim around windows and doors, and built-in elements, such as bookcases or breakfast nooks. Fine carpentry gives your house that finished touch.

Paint

Nearing the end of the project, it’s time to paint the walls or add wallpaper. Many homeowners can handle the work of painting interior walls, hanging wallpaper, painting molding and trim, or staining and sealing trim. All of these detail-oriented surface finishes should be some of the last items you do indoors.

Floor Installation

Install floor covering in the house. Choose laminate, solid hardwood, engineered wood, or carpet for various living and bedroom areas and vinyl, tile, or marble for bathrooms and kitchens. No matter what you choose, plan to install the flooring as late as possible in the renovation process. This will save your flooring surface from significant damage.

Exterior Work

Work on the exterior of the house. Install gutters and siding. Consider external renovations that might be connected to the house, such as adding a front porch or sunroom, or adding a detached garage or swimming pool.

Why Dryer Ducts Need to Be Cleaned

The U.S. Fire Administration reports that every year more than 2,900 home fires are started by clothes dryers, and the leading cause of these fires is a buildup of lint due to lack of simple maintenance on the part of the owner. Each load of laundry that passes through your washing machine and makes its way to your clothes dryer contains lint—mostly small particles of cloth and fiber that are loosened from clothing by the action of agitating water.

The removable lint filter in your dryer simply cannot catch all the lint freed from clothing. The lint that makes it past the filter gets trapped in crevices deep inside the lint filter trap and all along the dryer ductwork as it makes its way to the outside vent opening. When the lint builds up, they restrict airflow and lead to overheating, which can ignite the lint itself.

There are several warning signs that dangerous lint buildup has occurred in your dryer ductwork system, indicating that it needs a thorough cleaning:

• Clothes take longer to dry or don’t dry fully
• Clothes are hotter than normal at the end of the drying cycle
• Outside of dryer gets very hot
• Outside exhaust vent flapper does not open very much, indicating low exhaust velocity
• Laundry room becomes more humid than usual
• Burnt smell is evident in the laundry room

Safety Considerations Before Starting

The flexible plastic or metal foil ductwork that was once commonly used to connect dryers to outside vents are now forbidden by most local building codes. These vent tubes were popular because of the ease with which they can be routed through difficult spaces, but because their inside surfaces are ribbed, they can easily catch lint and cause fires due to overheating.

If you have one of these flexible ducts installed, it is best to replace it with smooth-walled metal ductwork approved for this use. If you can’t remove and replace the old ductwork, then it should be regularly removed and carefully cleaned out from one end to the other.

Special Brushes Are Needed

Thorough dryer vent cleaning requires special brushes. Vacuum attachments alone do not work as well because they do not agitate the lint to remove it from the walls of the duct, and they can’t reach deep enough inside the dryer’s lint filter housing.

Brush kits come with a long-bristle brush to clean the lint filter area, as well as a round-bristled brush that can clean out a 4-inch round rigid dryer duct—the kind you should have for all concealed portions of your duct run. The round brush tip fastens to a flexible fiberglass shaft that can be lengthened in sections.

Use this guide to discover 10 reasons for low water pressure in your house and how to resolve the situation.

Identifying Low Water Pressure Problems

If you suspect that there is a water pressure problem or simply want confirmation that the water pressure is low, you can check the water pressure with a test gauge.

A test gauge is a simple device that can attach directly to the hose spigot on the outside of the home. After screwing the test gauge onto the spigot, turn the valve on and check the reading. This will indicate the current water pressure at the hose spigot, which is typically enough to confirm a water pressure issue for the home. If you want to be sure that the water pressure problem is throughout the house and not just at the one fixture, then you can attach the gauge to the laundry sink and repeat the process.

Reasons for Low Water Pressure in Your House

Using Too Many Water-Using Appliances at Once

It’s common to have more than one water-using appliance or fixture going at the same time. This may be any combination of washing dishes, washing clothes, showering, watering the lawn, using sinks, filling tubs, or even pressure washing the patio or deck. The more appliances that are using water at the same time, the less water there will be for all applications.

Having one or two faucets running at the same time shouldn’t be enough to affect the water pressure, but the easiest way to resolve this issue is to stagger the water needs of the household throughout the day. Plan to put the dishes on before leaving for work, then come home to a hot shower, prepare dinner, and put a load of laundry on.

Main Valve Is Partially Closed

The main water shutoff valve is responsible for controlling the flow of water into the home. If the valve is partially closed, then it means that the water pressure is being reduced. The valve is usually located on the main water line immediately after the water line enter the home.

Depending on the type of valve, you may see a ball valve with a lever that moves 90 degrees or a gate valve with a handle that rotates to open and close the valve. To open a ball valve, simply move the handle so that it lays in line with the water pipe. In order to fully open a gate valve, turn it counterclockwise until it can no longer turn, then turn it back a quarter turn to avoid potential leaks or a seized valve.

Water Meter Valve Isn’t Fully Open

The main valve isn’t the only valve that can affect the water pressure for the entire home. In many houses, there is a water meter located right after the main valve. This is used by the local utility to measure the water use for the home. Generally, there will be a water meter isolation valve installed after the water meter. If the water meter valve is partially closed, then the flow of water into the home will be restricted.

Check whether the water meter valve is a ball valve with a lever that moves 90 degrees or if it is a gate valve, which has a handle that rotates like a wheel. Open a ball valve by turning the handle so that it is in line with the water pipe. For a gate valve, turn the valve counterclockwise until it can no longer turn, then rotate it back about a quarter turn to avoid leaks or a stuck valve. Take this opportunity to check that the main valve is fully open as well.

Failing Pressure Regulator

While high water pressure can seem like a good thing, if the water pressure is too high it can damage the faucets, showerheads, appliances, and water lines. With this in mind, homes located in areas with high water pressure will typically have a pressure regulator installed immediately after the main shutoff valve.

If the pressure regulator is not set correctly, then it could be restricting the flow of the water more than necessary. You can adjust this on your own or contact a plumber to adjust it for your. However, if the pressure regulator is set to about 50 psi, but the water pressure throughout the home is lower than this setting, then it could indicate that the pressure regulator is failing. Contact a plumber to replace the faulty regulator and restore normal water pressure to the home.

Faulty Plumbing Fixtures

If the low water pressure seems to only be affecting one or two fixtures, then there is likely an isolated cause for this situation.

Aerators on a faucet fixture are intended to reduce the volume of water without changing the pressure, but dirt, rust, and limestone can build up inside the aerator, causing the fixture to restrict the flow of water. Similarly, showerheads can get clogged with debris, and even dishwasher inlet hoses can become blocked.

If the fixtures are relatively new, consider removing and cleaning the fixtures, then reinstalling them to resolve the problem. If the issue is being caused by older fixtures, then it may be time to upgrade to new fixtures to fix the low water pressure issue.

Water Supply Issues

In some cases, low water pressure can be caused by the water supplier. If your home is connected the municipal water system, then contact the local water supplier to determine the reason behind the low water pressure. If it’s something that they are in the process of fixing, then you will need to wait for the problem to be resolved.

If you’re on a well system, a problem with the water supply is a much more concerning issue and can mean the well pump may not be running. This is can be cause by a mechanical problem, like a faulty motor or a tripped breaker, but it may also happen if the well runs dry. Contact a plumber that specializes in well systems to assess the situation and suggest the best course of action.

Corroded or Clogged Water Lines

If the water lines are badly corroded or clogged with limescale buildup, then it can restrict the flow of water, leading to low water pressure problems.

Generally, galvanized steel lines will start to corrode after about 20 years. Copper pipes last for over 50 years, while brass pipes are fine for about 40 to 70 years. If the pipes in the home are approaching the end of their life, then it may be time to replace the water lines before the pipes start to leak.

Limescale and other mineral buildup can be a bigger issue in areas with hard water. Due to the widespread network of pipes running through the home, this isn’t an issue that can be resolved easily. Contact a plumber to inspect and possibly replace the water lines. Also, consider investing in a water softener to help prevent this issue in the future.

Leaking Water Pipes

If you have a leak in the water lines, then there may be more than one leak, which can affect the water pressure for the home. The bigger problem is that water is leaking into the home, causing water damage, mold growth, and rot.

If you suspect that the cause of the low water pressure is leaking pipes, take immediate action. Inspect any visible water lines to track down the source of the leak. If you cannot locate the leak, contact a plumber. These trained professionals should be able to find out where the water line is leaking and repair or replace the plumbing to resolve the issue.

Shared Water Lines

While rare, in some circumstances the water line running into the home is shared with one or more neighboring homes. So, if the neighbor takes a shower, washes their car, or puts a load of dishes on, then this will affect the water pressure in your home and any other connected homes. This does not mean you are paying for their water usage, but it does mean the water supply is divided between multiple households.

The most affordable option to resolve this issue is to plan your water usage around your neighbor’s schedule, though this isn’t a reasonable solution. Unfortunately, the other method for fixing this problem is to have a plumber replace the water lines from the municipal service to the home, ensuring that the new line runs only to your home, though pipe replacement can be a costly job.

Branch Lines Are Too Small

Some homes have normal water pressure running into the home, but the water pressure is restricted by narrow branch lines when the water is distributed to appliances and plumbing fixtures. Branch lines are the pipes that come off the main water line after it enters the home.

If you suspect that this is the cause of the low water pressure issues, contact a plumber to assess the plumbing system. They will be able to determine if the branch lines are too small for the current network of appliances and plumbing fixtures. If the lines are too small, then the plumber will likely suggest upgrading the pipes to a larger size to fix this issue.

Removing tile grout is remarkably easy, clean, and fast. Though it may seem daunting, this task can take as little as an afternoon, depending on the size of the tile area.

While you can remove grout manually, an oscillating multi-tool equipped with a grout removal blade makes the job considerably faster and easier. With this handy tool, you can remove 15 square feet of grout on 4-by-4-inch tile in about an hour.

Why Remove Tile Grout

• Mold and mildew: The old grout might be moldy and beyond cleanable. In many cases, it is faster and easier to remove the grout than to clean it.
• Design: The existing grout color is no longer pleasing to you, and you wish to change it. One way to change grout color is to colorize existing grout. But the more effective way is to use entirely new tinted grout.
• Grout in poor condition: The grout is chipped and falling out. Patching in with new grout doesn’t work well; it’s better to remove everything and grout it again.
• Repair tile surface: Grout from poor tilework that has been allowed to dry on the surface of the tile should be removed.

What You’ll Need

Equipment / Tools

• Safety goggles
• Oscillating tool and grout removal blade
• Carbide tip grout removal tool
• Utility knife with a dull blade
• Shop vacuum

Materials

• Garbage bag

Instructions

How to Remove Grout in Tile Seams

1. 
   

   Grind Grout Straight On

   Put on safety goggles to protect your eyes. Fit the oscillating tool with a blade designed for removing tile grout. Start by holding the tool horizontally (or vertically in the case of vertical seams), turning on the power, and lightly pressing the blade to the grout.

   Let the power tool do the work; do not force it. The blade should easily chew through the grout. As you work, place only large chunks of grout in the garbage bag. You’ll be able to vacuum up smaller pieces later.

   Tip

   An oscillating tool removes grout without harming the tile because the grout is much softer than the tile. However, it is possible to damage the tile if you press too hard or for too long. Work carefully and keep your eye on the blade.
2. 
   

   Grind the Grout at an Angle

   Once you have removed as much grout as possible by holding the tool horizontally, it is time to gently angle the blade to remove more grout. Work slowly and patiently to help ensure that you do not damage the edges of your tile.

   One trick is to support your arm on a toolbox, so it does not get tired during the process. Or you can hold the tool primarily with your strong hand, then support the tool underneath with your other hand.

3. 
   

   Scrape With a Carbide Tip Grout-Removal Tool

   After you have done as much grout removal as possible with the power tool, your next line of attack is the small carbide tip grout-removal tool. The head will fit into the joints and allow you to scrape out stubborn chunks of grout. Do not try to remove every last bit; that is for the next step. Your intent is to knock out hunks that the oscillating tool may have loosened but not completely removed.

   Tip

   Be careful not to pry the grout removal tool against the tile edges, as this can easily chip them.
4. 
   

   Clean up With a Utility Knife

   If you are still finding bits of grout that will not come out, switch to a utility knife with a dull blade. You want a dull blade for several reasons: First, it makes no sense to use up a nice, sharp blade on tile grout. Use that sharp blade for something else first. Second, you do not want to risk snapping off the sharp point of the utility knife and getting injured.

5. 
   

   Vacuum as You Go

   Use a shop vacuum to frequently clean up the grout joints as you work. This helps you see what you are doing and helps pull loose material out of the joints. It also minimizes the mess in your work area. When you’ve finished removing the grout, give all of the joints a final pass with the vacuum to remove all loose debris.

How to Remove Grout on Tiles

Grout sometimes will end up on the surface of the tile. If the grout is still wet, simply wipe off with a wet sponge. If the grout has hardened, a few simple and gentle tactics will remove most dried grout from the tile surface.

1. 
   

   Scrape With a Plastic Scraper

   Starting at one side of the dried grout, lay the edge of the scraper firmly on the tile surface. Press the scraper forward to dislodge the grout. Back up and scrape forward again.

   Tip

   To avoid scratching the tile, use only a plastic scraper, never a metal scraper. If you don’t have a plastic scraper, try using an old credit card or an ice scraper.

2. 
   

   Scrape in Short Strokes

   Work in short strokes. Do not continue scraping farther than is necessary. Long scrapes may scratch the tile with dislodged grout. Frequently wipe up the debris to avoid scratching the surface with the grout.

3. 
   

   Wipe With a Wet Sponge

   Soak a sponge in clean, warm water. Wipe up the dried grout with the sponge. After the tile surface has dried, assess your work and scrape again if necessary.

Grout Removal Tips and Troubleshooting

• Make sure that you’re using a masonry blade on the oscillating tool. Metal or wood blades are inappropriate and require more effort.
• For delicate tile areas, run a strip of painter’s tape or electrical tape along the side of the tile seam to protect the tile.
• To protect the face of the tile, tape down cardboard.
• If you’re able to remove the grout all the way down, that’s good. But if you can only remove as far as 1/8-inch, that will work, too. When re-grouting you don’t necessarily need to remove grout all the way down to the substrate.
• If you’re using a battery-powered oscillating tool, you can incorporate water to hold down the dust. Lightly mist the tile surface with a spray bottle. For safety reasons, do not use water with a corded oscillating tool.
• If you’re having a hard time seeing the work due to grout dust, turn on the shop vacuum and keep the nozzle next to the tile seam as you work. Be sure to equip the vacuum with a HEPA filter to avoid broadcasting grout dust throughout the house.